Best time to visit Venice

Venice is small and fragile, and the number of other people in it changes the experience more than the weather. Carnival in February and the summer months from June to August are wall-to-wall, with heat and humidity added in summer. The best months are April to May and late September to October, with mild weather, the Biennale open and the day-tripper tide manageable before ten and after five. Winter is cold, often foggy, and prone to acqua alta flooding between October and January, though the MOSE barrier now prevents the worst floods.

Winter is also the only time the city feels like it belongs to its residents. An access fee applies to day visitors on peak days from spring to summer, booked online; overnight guests pay the tourist tax instead. The Doge's Palace and St Mark's Basilica sell timed tickets; the Basilica's free entry has a dress code and a queue. The vaporetto day pass is the practical way around, and the Lido beaches are twenty minutes away. For the best balance of weather and crowds, take the first half of May or October.